Custom Cushion Cut Diamond Engagement Ring

by Melissa Scoppa May 25, 2018

Custom Cushion Cut Diamond Engagement Ring

Getting Started

When beginning on a custom design, sketches are a good place to start. Lucky for me I happened to know this customer and their jewelry taste quite well - It's my Mom! She has always supported my jewelry creations since day one and is a jewelry connoisseur so I knew I really needed to WORK to impress!  

This ring has been such an exciting piece for me to create because it's not every day I get to work with such amazing materials, but I love to do it and find it to be super rewarding! Silver is awesome, but COME ON look at this thing! So much planning went into this piece and it is truly unique in so many ways. 

Sketching

Once we have a general direction for the look and feel of the ring, I like to start by illustrating what I think the client wants, and then offering some variations on the initial design. I typically come up with some options that are more simplified, and some that might be over the top.

These are helpful to narrow things down in the decision making process. They also really help to show what is possible and help to explore the many options there are when creating a custom piece of jewelry completely from scratch.

Hand Carving

Once a design has been chosen, finer details are then resolved and the making can begin. For this design we knew we wanted a handcrafted look and also a mix of white and gold metal. Mixed metal is a great option if you are someone who wears both silver and gold jewelry on a regular basis because it will match both. It also creates a beautiful contrast and lets each design detail stand out.

The shape of the band is carved out of jewelers carving wax or what's called "file-a-wax". The general shape is created using a variety of files and Precision carvers like the one pictured above. For my jewelry makers these are the Wolf brand Micro Carvers. I also used Wolf brand wax here as well.

The traditional technique of wax carving combined with a little soldering and fabrication was used to create a sculptural look but also be able to add elements of platinum sheet and Platinum millgrain.

Sourcing Materials

I sourced a Cushion Modified Brilliant cut Diamond 1.71ct with GIA cert as the perfect centerpiece for this ring. We had it narrowed down to two diamonds that were within the specs that we wanted and we went with one that had what's know as a "crushed ice" look which will make sense when you look at it.

A gold bezel was then hand made to tightly fit the measurements of the diamond. This frame of gold will eventually be the part that entraps the diamond as metal is tightened and pushed over the exterior edge of the diamond during the setting process.

 

 

 

Casting Process

The ring was cast from wax to 14K Yellow gold using the lost wax casting method. Fabricated platinum elements were then added as well as an accent diamond on each side of the ring.

 

Final Touches

A decorative detail known as Millgrain (French for "a thousand grains") was added by hand on each side as well as around the setting. Shown above, tiny beads of metal are cut one by one using a special tool and lots of pressure.

Each hand made element is carefully combined , quality hallmarks are stamped, and the center diamond is securely set as the final step.



Melissa Scoppa
Melissa Scoppa

Author



Leave a comment


Also in News

Custom Dragonfly Birthstone Pendant
Custom Dragonfly Birthstone Pendant

by Melissa Scoppa September 06, 2018

I don't always document the process of making every piece of jewelry, because to be honest, it can really slow things down to stop and take a decent picture at every stage of the process! I really love to share this stuff because I personally love to see how different things are made and to see the end product and understand what went into it. 

I knew when I started working on this custom Dragonfly pendant, it would be a fun piece to document.

Continue Reading

What I'm working on
What I'm working on

by Melissa Scoppa August 10, 2018

I thought it would be fun to share a few of the preliminary sketches that did not end up getting used. I tried to provide a wide variety of styles when determining a starting point. Take a look! Which would you choose?

Continue Reading

Spring Renegade San Francisco
Spring Renegade San Francisco

by Melissa Scoppa May 01, 2018

Craft show season is officially here and we kicked it off with Spring Renegade in San Francisco! I met so many awesome people and got to chat with other vendors selling handmade and vintage goods.

 

Continue Reading

Jewelry Sizing Guides

Necklace Sizing Guide

The length of a necklace affects how it looks when you wear it. Always pay attention to necklace length when you’re purchasing jewelry, and be aware of how different necklace lengths look on you.

Most pendants can not be switched to longer or shorter chains on your own and they would need to be sent in to us for the alteration. They are designed so that the pendant does not fall off of the chain and the bail (part that connects the pendant to the chain) is too small to fit over the clasp and end ring.

We suggest that you measure a necklace that you already have and that is the length that you are looking for. Measurements should be taken from end to end including the clasp.

 

Ring Sizing Guide

Method #1

To get the most accurate measurement possible we urge you to get professionally sized at a local jewelry store and it that is not possible, pick up one of our Plastic Ring Sizers available in the shop. This sizer gives a pretty accurate measurement and is essentially free since it comes with a 4$ coupon code for a future ring purchase with us.

We also realize that time is of the essence sometimes and/or maybe you have plenty of rings lying around that fit perfect but just can't remember the size. Therefore we have outlined two possible ways for you to measure your ring size using this handy dandy printable PDF.

Please be sure to follow the instructions and double check measurements with a ruler. Printers can be tricky with sizing.

 

Method #2 - Measure A Ring That Fits

Place your ring over the closest matching sized circle, make sure the inside of the ring fits around the outside of the circle. If you are between sizes, order up.

Method #3 - Measure Your Finger With a Ruler

1 - Get a non-stretchy string or paper about 6" long and 1/4" wide.

2 - Wrap around the base of your finger. It has to fit snug, but not too tight.

3 - Mark the point on the string/paper where it overlaps forming a circle.

4 - Compare the length of the string/paper to the chart. That is your ring size.

*If you are between sizes, order a larger size.

Make sure your finger is at a normal body temperature -- fingers can shrink or expand when cold or hot. If your knuckle is much larger than your finger’s base, take two separate measurements and choose a size in between. You want a ring to fit over your knuckle, but not be too loose or it will shift around.